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Burial Sites Offer Insight into Cosmology of Old Korea

When the World Heritage Committee of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) meets in Spain on June 22–30, it may register Korea’s Joseon dynasty royal tombs as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This follows a May 13 recommendation to UNESCO by the International Council on Monuments and Sites. If the tombs are registered, they will become the eighth site named to the prestigious list of the world’s most important historical and cultural sites.
Korea is home to some 40 royal tombs, the bulk of which are located in Seoul and the surrounding province of Gyeonggi-do. Along with two sites located in the North Korean city of Gaeseong , the tombs account for the entire lineage of the Joseon kingdom, from King Taejo (r. 1392-1398) to Emperor Sunjong (r. 1907–1910). Easily accessible from Seoul, the tombs are exquisite examples of Korean landscaping and provide visitors with insight into the history and worldview of the Confucian-inspired kingdom of Joseon.

Characteristics of Royal Tombs

The majority of Joseon royal tombs are located between 10 and 100 ri (4 and 40km) from Gyeongbokgung Palace. The location and arrangement of the tombs are highly informed by Confucianism and feng shui. In accordance with Confucian etiquette, each tomb is divided into three spaces, an entrance (usually marked by a simple red gate and a stone bridge), a place to conduct rites (usually a T-shaped Korean-style hall), and the burial spot itself, with the grave and stone monuments. The burial grounds are typically located on hillsides with mountains to their rear for protection and streams nearby to let the Earth’s energy flow. Much care went into the surrounding landscapes, as well – tombs are usually surrounded by splendid verdant forests of pine and oak.

Tomb of King Taejo (r. 1392–1398), the founder of the Joseon dynasty, at the Donggureung tomb complex in Guri, Gyeonggi-do. At the entrance of the tomb is a simple red gate, a stream (which carried the planet’s life energy) and a small stone bridge (not visible in this photo). The slightly raised middle of the stone path is reserved for the spirit of the departed king, whose spirit should be able to stroll about the grounds.

Ggureung Tomb Complex
Guri-si, Gyeonggi-do

The largest of the Joseon tomb clusters, Donggureung is the final resting place of seven kings and 10 queens, including the founder of the Joseon dynasty, King Taejo (r. 1392–1398). The tomb of King Seonjo (r. 1567–1608) is particularly grand, while King Taejo’s tomb is unique as it is covered in rushes from the northern Korean town of Hamhung, Taejo’s hometown.

• Admission : 1,000 won
• Hours : 9am–5:30pm (March–Oct), 9am–4:30pm (Nov–Feb). Closed Monday.
• Getting There : Bus No. 1-1 or 9-2 from Gangbyeon Station (Line 2). Get off at Donggureung. Trip takes about 40 minutes.

The entry to the Donggureung Tomb Complex in Guri, Gyeonggi-do. The largest of the Joseon Dynasty’s tomb complexes, it is the final resting place of seven kings and 10 queens, including King Taejo (r. 1392–1398), the founder of the dynasty. The complex is surrounded by luxuriant forests, making it a perfect place to escape the summer heat.

Stone official and soldier stand at the ready in front of the tomb of King Seonjo (1567–1608) at Donggureung, Guri. Each official has his own stone horse. Stone tigers and rams were also placed before the tomb to protect it from evil.

Hongneung and Yureung
Namyangju-si, Gyeonggi-do

These two tombs are unique in that they are the burial places of emperors, Emperor Gojong (r. 1863–1907) and Emperor Sunjong (r. 1907–1910) of the Daehan Empire and their wives, including the strong-willed Empress Myeongseong, who was assassinated by the Japanese in 1895. As imperial rather than royal burial sites, the tombs adopt the layout of imperial Chinese tombs – the stone animals and guardians are located along the path to the rites pavilion, which have been expanded into palatial structures.

• Admission : 1,000 won
• Hours : 9am–5:30pm (March–Oct), 9am–4:30pm (Nov–Feb). Closed Monday.
• Getting There : Bus No. 1-1 or 9-2 from Gangbyeon Station (Line 2). Get off at Donggureung. Trip takes about 40 minutes.

The "sacred path" to the tomb of Emperor Gojong (r. 1863–1907) in Namyangju, Gyeonggi-do. After the proclamation of the Daehan Empire in 1897, the Joseon king was elevated to the position of emperor. Their tombs reflect this — Gojong’s tomb is modeled on the tomb of the Hongwu Emperor, the founder of China’s Ming Dynasty. In imperial fashion, the “sacred path” to the tomb is lined with stone animals, officials and soldiers, the spiritual protectors of the graves.

Lotus blossoms in a pond at Hongneung and Yureung tombs in Namyangju, Gyeonggi-do.

Seonjeongneung
Samseong-dong, Seoul

The burial place of King Seongjong (r. 1469–1494) and King Jungjong (r. 1506–1544), Seonjeongneung is today located in the heart of one of Seoul’s busiest commercial districts. The visual contrast of the tombs against their urban backdrop is striking. Despite the location, the site is surrounded by rich forests and is quite tranquil, making it an excellent urban park.

• Admission : 1,000 won
• Hours : 6am–6:30pm (summer), 6:30am–5pm (winter). Closed Monday.
• Getting There : Exit 8, Seolleung Station, Line 2.

Tomb of King Seongjong (r. 1469–1494) at Seongjeongneung in Samseong-dong, Seoul. The grass mounds are surrounded by intricately carved stoneworks, including a beautiful stone railing and a so-called “folding screen rock” into which the Korean zodiac has been carved. In the background, the modern city of Seoul awaits.

What better way to beat the summer heat than by strolling beneath the cool shade at Seongjeongneung.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

(Source: Monthly SEOUL)